The book took us south past Catania into the towns devastated by an earthquake in 1693. Reconstructed from the glowing local limestone, the towns we passed through, Ferla, Palazollo Acreide, Noto, Ispica, Scicli and Ragusa all have outstanding examples of Baroque architecture. Two nights in Noto and another two in Ragusa gave us good time to check out the coastal tuna town of Marzamemi and the others mentioned on the drive.
Noto
We arrived around sun down in Noto and walked the short distance to the main street which is entered through this impressive arch.
At this hour, around 7:30, the street was coming alive with nomads like us, families walking and restaurants setting up.
Men sat on benches lining the street and piazzas. They spoke loudly gesturing like conductors, stared at pretty women as they passed and wondered what accent the man in the black hat was using to say, “Buongiorno,” anytime our eyes met.
In this light, the buildings were impressive and we returned the following day for some close ups and a tour of Palazzo Nicolaci, the home of a Prince and tuna baron.
The helpful woman at the ticket office explained the rooms we were to visit. The entertainment room, she said , was painted to improve the acoustics. She said the Gods Neptune and Apollo represented Sicilian men who saw themselves as Gods.
“Do Sicilian men still consider themselves Gods?” I asked with the hint of a smile.
She grinned, nodded slowly and with brows raised, looked knowingly at Sharon. She joined her in a silent but expressive conversation of nods, head tilts, grins and sideways glances while I was left to suffer the consequences of my ill-considered question.
The rooms were sparsely decorated but interesting all the same.
We gained access to the balconies which are supported by richly decorated brackets.
Though we’d seen many fine examples in all the towns we visited, the horses, lions and mermaids of this palazzo were the standouts. The balcony railings on these palazzos were also interesting in that they were shaped to allow the women’s dresses of the time to fit their curves.
We enjoyed our two days in Noto. Knowing nothing of a place and discovering it is a gem is the best part of a road trip.
Don’t say I didn’t send you a postcard.
